member: H

Posted on 28-09-2006 19:58

Hi all,
took my mini for a pre MOT today as its due on the 6th oct and i wanted to know if it needed anything, the only thing it failed on was the yes you have guest right the rear sub, and it just so happens i have one made up already, so i would like to know the order to do things, also if you have any tips that might help with the removal and refitting of said item.

RE: Rear Subframe
member: fightthefear

Posted on 29-09-2006 12:10
This was posted by Deano on the northern minis forum he has covered it well and it saves me typing it all
done this a few times now on older minis - loads of seized bolts Very Happy
1. A few days before the task clean all the nuts and bolts on the subframe mountings with a wire brush - decrud them Very Happy and soak them in WD40 Also soak the handbrake clevis pins on the rear brakes.
2. On the big day, disconnect the battery and make safe (remove it) then take out the fuel tank (empty it first).
3. Under the Mini get it on axle stands - Get some blocks of wood on top of the axle stands to protect your babys floor and paint work. Depending on the condition of your Mini there should be some jacking points at the back of the sills just in front of the rear subby. (unlike mine - long gone)
4. remove the exhaust system if its an RC40 you may be able to split the system.
5. Remove the handbrake cable - much easier taking the cable off the handbrake from in the Mini so all the cable is removed.
6. Next its the dreaded brake pipes, take off the brake fluid resovoir cap and refit it this time by trapping a plastic bag under it screw down the cap so it nips the bag this should reduce the brake fluid escaping when you split the rear brake circuit. (air locking the system)
7. Disconnect the brake pipe at the T under the rear subrame get a jar just incase there is a lot of fluid - DONT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINTWORK!
8 Remove the shockabsorbers from inside the boot by removing the top nuts - You may want to do this step before the Mini is jacked up so shocks dont turn around when you and try and release the retaining nuts.
SO quick check you should have removed the following: Exhaust/Hand brake cable/rear brake pipe / shock absorbers / fuel tank to access shock mounts and left side rear subframe mounting.
9. Now its time to drop the frame - use a snap on 13mm of 1/2Inch socket that is shaped to the shape of the bolt head, these are the best as they dont round off seized bolts - however! they may shear them off take care! This is the skill bit before undoing the mountings place a plank of wood underneath the rear subframe to support it and use another trolley jack to hold the plank under the frame. Now very carefully remove the subframe mounting bolts the bolts that screw into the ends of the sills are often seized so work them backwards and forwards gently until they become free. DOnt just give full force on the ratchet to remove them as they may shear off Embarassed The rear mountings are in the boot, and are nuts and bolts should be easy but will be easier if you get a mate to hold one end of the spanner.
With all the moutings released and bolts taken out, slowly lower the trolley jack and the frame will drop down (may need abudge) prepare for a mountain of rust!
Things to watch out for - when the subframe comes down it may bring the ends of the sills with it! dont panic tho as you can get repair panels. Brake pipes - if corroded a good time to renew them. Should take a good morning to remove the frame, but be prepared for some repairs / replacing
Thats it! Congratulate yourself with a nice brew and job well done. Now if I can do this in the dark outside on a road in the middle of winter then anyone can do it - just be prepared for some possible body repairs to the floor areas above the subby that cannot usually be aceessed. Also clean up the mini underside (above where the subframe sits) give it a lick of paint and it will be greatfull smiley This is why I love this Mini thing smiley
Or you could read the Haines manual Laughing Hope you find it usefull above - should last for 10 years before it needs doing again Razz On reassembly copper grease all threads on bolts, waxoyl everything - yearly!
Get some pics up of that subframe lying on the floor under the Mini
Good Luck

RE: Rear Subframe

member: Richie

Posted on 01-10-2006 01:24
???? there is no need what so ever to remove the tank ???? Heather. complete step one as said. soak all bolts in wd 40 or if you have time buy some turpentine and mix it 3 parts tupentine and 1 part engine oil and put it in a spray bottle (it pennetrates much better than wd40) then undoo the shox whilst car is on ground. then jack car up and undoo the bolts on subframe. I advise clamping a mole grip on the brake lines (each side) priorto removing the line from the drum (this saves you time bleeding brakes) you will need to undoo exhaust and the hand brake cables too. prior to finishing the job i recomend you wax oil the shit out of the replacement frame.
lil tips.
1) when jacking up the car, remove the back box (exhaust) then place two axel stands and a plank of wood under the floor pan to support weight.
2) do not waist ure time removing the tank
3) make sure your put copper grease on all the bolts you put back in.
4) take ure time to clean all rusty bolts prior to trying to remove them. or you will round them off.
5) replace your stock rubber brake hosing on the radius arms with braided earoquip alternatives. if you can afford it as they are much much better